In spite of being the world’s most-visited city, Bangkok has got to be one of its least-explored. Which is understandable: Traffic in the city is a nightmare; most tourists stick to areas that are accessible on foot or via the city’s limited (but improving) public transport.
To be sure, although I’ve been coming to the city for over 15 years (and, to my credit, often push well outside my comfort zone in order to visit places that are new to me), I continue to make discoveries on literally every trip.
One of these is Wat Phra Dhammakaya, a temple that’s controversial—maybe even notorious—among Thais, but which most farang don’t realize exists. Come inside with me, and decide if you’d like to visit as well.
Why Bangkok’s “UFO Temple” Remains Under the Radar
Many (but not all) of my friends know about the Dhammakaya temple, especially those who live in Bangkok. I won’t go into the specifics of this Buddhism sect—I won’t declare whether it is or isn’t a cult—but suffice it to say, local Bangkokians have their own opinions. In fact, I know many Thais who won’t set foot of the temple’s property, simply out of principle.
But this fact alone—namely, that there isn’t a critical mass of local tourism to the temple—doesn’t explain why foreigners seem so unaware of the existent of Wat Phra Dhammakaya. The location of the temple (in the general vicinity of Don Mueang Airport, which is hardly a touristic part of town) doesn’t help matters, particularly given the horrendous traffic in that part of the city, which is poorly served by public transport.
How to Visit Wat Phra Dhammakaya
Figure out how to get there
Unlike the first time I visited Dhammakaya temple, Thailand’s Grab app is now reliable enough that you can reasonably use Grab to get from anywhere in Bangkok to the temple entrance. Still, traffic is bad enough most of the day that you might want to ride a train to Chatuchak Park or even Don Mueang Station to get a head start.
Be (sort of) vigilant after you arrive
As I’ll explain later in this article, staff at the Bangkok UFO temple aren’t really concerned with foreigners, to the extent that the Dhammakaya organization is a cult. At the same time, you’ll want to be more vigilant if you’re of Asian descent, as they may assume you’re a local Thai and try to approach you.
Stay as long as you can
Wat Phra Dhammakaya is huge—this is evident from a map, or if you happen to see it flying out from DMK Airport, but might not be upon arrival at the site. Trust me when I say that spending at least an hour or two here is not only worthwhile, but necessary.
Don’t be shy to take pictures
You might think, given the Bangkok cult temple, that staff would discourage people from taking pictures. The opposite is true, in fact! The place is architecturally stunning to, with the Million Buddha Pagoda on its far side (relative to the entrance) being my favorite photographic subject).
Pay attention to the timing of your visit
Wat Phra Dhammakaya is far outside of Bangkok’s core, and while going part of the way by train can lessen the impact of traffic, it’s still endemic. I’d recommend waiting until after morning rush hour (so after about 9 AM) to get here. Conversely, do your best to leave before 3 PM or after 7 PM.
Other Amazing Temples in Bangkok
Bangkok is both an ancient and a modern city, with some of Thailand’s most impressive temples. Here are a few of my favorites:
- Wat Pak Nam: Also associated with Dhammakaya, this “space temple” is popular among Japanese tourists, but not as much among other foreigners.
- Wat Arun: My favorite of Bangkok’s “mainstream” temples, the famous Temple of Dawn is ironically even more beautiful at dusk.
- Wat Traimit: Planning to enjoy street food in Yaowarat, aka Bangkok’s Chinatown? Make sure not to miss this proverbial marble temple.
TIP: Learn more about the best temples in Bangkok by reading the dedicated article I’ve written about the topic, which you can find here.
Other FAQ About Wat Phra Dhammakaya
Why is Wat Phra Dhammakaya so controversial?
Wat Phra Dhammakaya is controversial because it is associated with Dhammakaya, a Buddhist sect that is very divisive within Thai society. At worse, many Thai people consider it a cult, while some simply think it brainwashes its members into accepting financial abuse.
What is the meaning of Dhammakaya?
The Sanskrit phrase Dhamma (or Dharma) Kaya literally means “body of enlightenment.” Whether or not using this name makes the Dhammakaya sect of Theravada Buddhism a cult, I certainly think it’s a pretentious name for an organization to give itself.
Is Dhammakaya a cult?
As a foreigner and non-Buddhist, whether or not Dhammakaya is a cult is immaterial to me. I’ve never experienced harassment at either of Dhammakaya’s popular temples in Bangkok, and in fact no one spoke to me at all. If you’re Thai, however, then I recommend remaining vigilant and not giving money, no matter what you do.
The Bottom Line
Why is Wat Phra Dhammakaya so controversial? Well, to be honest, it really isn’t if you aren’t Thai. Due to its location near Don Mueang Airport in a decidedly non-touristic part of Bangkok, most foreigners don’t even know that the temple exists, let alone care about the controversy surrounding it. And let’s be frank: The drama around the temple is irrelevant to non-Thais, anyway. If you do visit (and I suggest you do), you are unlikely even to be approached by someone from the Dhammakaya organization, at least in any way that would see you risk getting sucked into the cult. Need personalized help planning your Thailand trip? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary!
