Thailand has reasonably good public transportation for a developing country, and it is reasonably easy to haggle rates for taxis and private cars there. On most of my trips, getting around has never been much of an issue.
At the same time, I’ve sometimes felt a profound lack of freedom when traveling. Namely, when I’m literally riding on the back of someone else’s motorbike on Koh Lanta or some other islands.
Now, I’m not here (or ever) going to recommend that you rent a motorbike in Thailand if you don’t have copious experience riding one elsewhere. I am happy to announce, however, that I’ve overcome my fear of driving in Thailand (a car, this is) and am excited to share my findings. (tl;dr version: It’s not that bad!)
Why It Took Me Over a Decade to Drive in Thailand
Until I decided to drive the Mae Hong Son Loop, I never really thought to rent a car in Thailand. Elsewhere in Thailand, I just got by. On the islands, I piggy-backed with people who could ride motorbikes. On the mainland, I either hired cars with drivers, or made friends (and, in some cases, got into relationships) with people who were driving their own cars. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked.
I mean, until it didn’t—there was just no way for me to experience Mae Hong Son province properly without self-driving. If I’m honest, I might not have even done it then, had I tried a few years earlier. Renting vehicles in Thailand, whether cars or motorbikes, has historically been a pretty sketchy endeavor. Thankfully, the Chiang Mai agency I used has put their process entirely online; others throughout Thailand have no doubt followed suit.
Amazing Thailand Road Trip Destinations
Mae Hong Son
I’d been hearing the hype about the Mae Hong Son Loop for nearly 15 years before driving it, and I have to say: It mostly lives up to it! While I wasn’t a huge fan of hippie haven Pai, the towns of Mae Sariang (and the capital of Mae Hong Son) left me speechless, whether I was paying respects in Burmese-style temples, or frolicking through sunflower fields.
Isaan
Isaan in general presents a good opportunity for driving in Thailand, given how poor public transportation is there. However, you can make an entire loop, stringing together (in this order) cities like Udon Thani, Roi Et, Ubon Ratchathani, Mukdahan and Nakhon Phanom. Or, you could rent a car in whatever city you fly to, and use it to explore destinations around it.
Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi is a popular day or weekend trip from Bangkok, primarily for Erawan Falls and sites related to World War II. However, if you rent a car (whether to drive there from and back to Bangkok, or once you get to Kanchanaburi) you can cover a lot more ground. This includes, but is no limited to, Wat Tham Suea temple and Srinakarin Dam.
Chiang Rai
I’ll be honest: I explored rural Chiang Rai province many times, and never thought to rent a car in Thailand. Still, I probably will next time I’m there, given how many opportunities having a car unlocks. The Golden Triangle notwithstanding, your own set of wheels allows you to explore the rural goodness of the province, including coffee farms like Doi Chaang.
Phang Nga
I’ve been spoiled during my trips to underrated Phang Nga, since my very good friend calls the town of Kalai home. Still, whether you’re discovering the virgin coasts of Khao Lak, visiting Khok Kloi Market or watching sunrise from Samet Nangshe viewpoint, this is one province where driving is all but necessary. It’s also a quick (road trip) to get from Phang Nga to Khao Sok National Park (which is technically in Surat Thani, but whatever).
Why I Will Never Drive a Motorbike in Thailand
A few months ago (as I’m writing this—it’s December 2024), a woman contacted me with what I can only describe as a disturbing message. Her son had been killed in a motorbike accident in Thailand; although I doubt he ever looked at my website, she seemed to be blaming me for his death. Realizing that she had implicated me out of grief and not wanting to upset her further, I didn’t respond.
What I would’ve said, had I responded, was simple. Namely, that I have never once advocated for foreign tourists in Thailand to rent or ride motorbikes. Quite the opposite, in fact. Virtually every foreigner I know who has rented a motorbike in Thailand has suffered some kind of accident. Do rent a car in Thailand, but don’t ride a motorbike—unless as the passenger for an experienced rider who is totally sober and awake.
Other FAQ About Driving in Thailand
Is driving in Thailand difficult?
Driving in Thailand is surprisingly easy—well, at least outside of major cities, where it’s a traffic-plagued nightmare. On highways and in rural areas, however, it’s just like driving in North America or Europe, with well-maintained roads, light policing and fellow drivers who are largely assertive (but not aggressive).
Is driving in Thailand safe?
Driving in Thailand felt safe to me, but the statistics tell another story: Thailand suffers nearly 26 road deaths per year per 100,000 residents. By contrast, that number is 12.8 in the US, 4.5 in Australia and just 2.6 in the UK. As of 2023, in fact, Thailand is #15 in the world for most road deaths per 100,000 people, behind only a handful of African countries.
Can US citizens rent a car in Thailand?
US citizens can easily rent a car in Thailand. Larger companies may ask for an International Driving Permit (IDP), while smaller agencies will typically only ask for a driver’s license from your home country. Paradoxically, many rental car companies in Thailand neither require nor accept credit cards, and instead ask for cash payment.
The Bottom Line
I’ve recently gotten over my fear of driving in Thailand—and I wish I’d done it sooner. Having your own set of wheels in Thailand makes traveling outside Thailand’s major cities so much easier, and honestly a lot more fun as well. At the same time, I have to qualify what I mean by “wheels”: In most cases, I mean renting a car. You should only drive a motorbike in Thailand if you are an extremely experienced rider; otherwise, it’s not safe at all. Need personalized help planning your Thailand road trip, whether it takes you to Mae Hong Son, Isaan or somewhere else? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary today!
