It might come as a surprise, given that I’ve been coming to Thailand for more than 15 years, but I actually just spent my first solo night ever in Ayutthaya.
Now obviously, this wasn’t my first time in Thailand’s former capital, nor was it my first overnight stay. In the past, however, I’ve always been accompanied by Thai friends, which was nice in one way—they showed me the city through their eyes, and greatly smoothed my passage—but also had its downsides.
Namely, until very recently, I didn’t know the city well enough to create my own Ayutthaya itinerary. Now that I’ve dug deep into the city completely on my own, I can weave my past experiences with my present knowledge to help you plan a future trip you won’t soon forget.
The Problem With Ayutthaya Day Trips
Now, let’s be frank: Most travelers are prepared, at most, to do an Ayutthaya day trip—I very rarely encounter travelers who have any intention of staying overnight. And to be honest, you can see a lot in Ayutthaya if you come for the day, particularly if you come very early, and if you have a driver to take you everywhere you’ll need to go during the time you’re there.
The trouble arises for a few reasons. First, in my experience, being carted around between temples (and other attractions) is not a great way to gain an understanding of Ayutthaya. Secondly, unless you have a private driver who doesn’t mind getting back to Bangkok at 10 PM (or even later), you won’t be able to stay in Ayutthaya until sunset—which, for me, is the most special time you can be there.
What to Do in Ayutthaya
Rent a bicycle or tuk-tuk
Although you can of course take a taxi all the way from Bangkok (and get your driver to chauffeur you around Ayutthaya), I prefer instead to go by train and rent a bike at one of the stalls across the street from the station. A second option could be to hire one of the waiting tuk-tuks, though to me this is a bit passive, and prevents the city from imprinting strongly into my mind.
Chart a sensible course
Coming from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, I usually like to start in the east (so, over the Chao Phraya River at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon) and then head over the bridge into town, though not necessarily to any other temples—at least not directly. (Eventually, I’ll visit not just central Wat Mahathat or Wat Phra Si Sanphet—though I like both these places—but also Wat Phra Ram and Wat Lokaya Sutha, Ayutthaya’s own reclining Buddha.)
Feast on local delights
Instead, I bike onto U Thong Road, which serves a few purposes. First of all, this is where you’ll find a large concentration of shops selling Ayutthaya’s local sweet specialty, roti sai-mai, which is basically Thai cotton candy. I also love eating seafood waterside, whether that’s river prawns at the superlative Civilize Ayutthaya, or somewhere else in the same area.
Consider a sunset boat ride
Unless you deciee to stay overnight in Ayutthaya, you might be running short on time by this point. Thankfully, you won’t, which means you can head north to enjoy “core” temples as the Golden Hour beckons. After that, you’ll want to watch sunset. The good news? Wat Chai Wattanaram, on the west side of the city across another bend in the river, is the top spot for that. The better news? You can book an Ayutthaya boat tour and watch from the water.
Take an excursion to Ang Thong or Bang Pa-in
A final advantage of staying the night in Ayutthaya? You can take a day trip from Ayutthaya, rather than having Ayutthaya itself be the day trip destination. My personal favorite places for this at the Bang Pa-in Palace, located just south of Ayutthaya, and Wat Muang Ang Thong, which is one of the tallest golden Buddha statues in all of Thailand.
Where to Stay in Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya’s accommodation selections reflect the fact that relatively few people stay here overnight. Most of the places to stay are guest houses or homestays, such as Luang Chumni Village or Ban Boonchu. While these spots are perfectly nice—and many of them, for what it’s worth, are very cheap—they definitely aren’t “luxury,” or anything approaching it.
And that’s the thing about Ayutthaya hotels. With the possible exception of Sala Ayutthaya (and, maybe Baan Veanglhek, though that would really be stretching it), there isn’t really any truly high-end option in Ayutthaya. Which again, is not a problem for me, though I’ve found it turns off a lot of my private clients, for whom something in the 4-5 star range is basically non-negotiable.
Other FAQ About Visiting Ayutthaya
How much time do you need in Ayutthaya?
Ayutthaya is a popular day-trip destination from Bangkok, but in my opinion, it’s really best if you can stay overnight. This will allow you not only to take your time exploring Ayutthaya’s attractions, but also to enjoy sunset (and, if you wake early the next morning, sunrise), which are always fabulous.
Can I do Ayutthaya in one day?
You can do Ayutthaya in one day, particularly if you arrive early in the morning and can commit to staying relatively late into the evening. However, I think it’s better to plan on staying overnight, so you can focus less on getting everything done within a certain time frame, and more on enjoying yourself.
Can you wear shorts in Ayutthaya?
Surprisingly, there doesn’t seem to be much regulation of wardrobe in Ayutthaya, with the possible exception of at Bang Pa-in Palace a few miles south of town. To be sure, on my last trip I wore jeans, which were an absolute pain when it came to riding a bicycle. In hindsight, I definitely wish I’d worn shorts!
The Bottom Line
I hope this Ayutthaya itinerary has helped you get excited for your trip. Although Thailand’s old capital chronicles literal centuries of history, it’s easier than you might expect to digest, particularly if you rent a bike and see it on your own terms, and at your own pace. It’s larger (and, frankly, rougher around the edges) than Sukhothai, but in a way feels more authentic, particularly as you explore the city’s nooks and crannies beyond the top attractions. Need personalized help integrating Ayutthaya into your trip, whether or not you stay the night? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary today!
