“It’s like the Maldives of Thailand,” my Thai friend told me as our ferry departed from the pier in Ranong. The scene around us, a muddy mangrove swamp, was certainly nothing like the Maldives.
At the same time, I had reason to be optimistic. A couple years before, I’d visited Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago, which was in the same maritime neighborhood. Those islands were so spectacular it wasn’t difficult to imagine that Koh Phayam might be, as well.
So, is Koh Phayam worth visiting? Well, as the title of this post hints, I’m not going to be singing the island’s praises—that much is for sure.
How to Get to Koh Phayam
Before you decide if Koh Phayam is worth visiting, you need to make some calculations. The first involves getting there, which is somewhat cumbersome. Namely, you’ll need to fly from Bangkok to Ranong (which is only served by low-cost airlines and, therefore, from the awful DMK airport), and then take a ferry from there to Koh Phayam. This will take you through the fetid mangrove waterway I mentioned in the intro.
Once you arrive at Koh Phayam’s pier, then, you will likely need to get on a motorbike or tuk-tuk. Most of the best accommodations on the island are on the farther, westward-facing shore. Which is where you find most of the beaches—well, apart from the rather filthy ones in and around the port area, whose water is often slicked with oil from arriving boats.
Why I Didn’t Love Koh Phayam
The beaches are…not great
I visit islands for one main reason: Beaches. And while Thailand is without a doubt home to some of the best beaches in the world, precisely zero of them are on Koh Phayam. In fact, many of Koh Phayam’s beaches are downright ugly, and feature grey sand, cloudy water and pine trees instead of palm trees. The “Maldives of Thailand” it is not.
There’s almost nothing else to do
Love doing yoga with other Westerners? Then perhaps you can fill your Koh Phayam itinerary with something other than the island’s ugly beaches. If not, however, then I challenge you spend longer than a day here without going crazy. There’s just nothing to see or do.
Most lodging is lacking
Unlike Krabi and Phuket with their high-end hotels, or Trat or Trang and spartan accommodations that are nonetheless charming, Koh Phayam doesn’t have any memorable places to stay—or at least it didn’t when I was there. I honestly can’t be bothered to check whether that has since changed.
It’s not worth the hassle
It’s not a question, of course, as to whether Koh Phayam is good or bad. I don’t dictate objective reality—one person’s paradise is another person’s hell. On the other hand, I can say that what awaits you after what will be a very long journey to Koh Phayam is not worth the trouble said journey will entail.
Visitors can’t or won’t see the truth
The strangest part of visiting Koh Phayam, for me, was the cognitive dissonance. Most of the other visitors seemed absolutely enamored with the island, as if they couldn’t see what I was seeing. I’m sure some had different expectations, while some may have lacked the perspective. Still, it was jarring!
Alternatives to Koh Phayam
Koh Phayam isn’t my jam, but thankfully Thailand has literally dozens of other islands:
- If crowds aren’t a deterrent, the more mainstream beach provinces of Krabi and Phuket just down the Andaman Sea are a good option. Alternatively, quieter Phang Nga just to the north of Phuket is wonderful.
- Koh Samui and its satellites Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao are beautiful, though nearly as busy as Phuket and Krabi.
- The Trat archipelago in the Gulf of Thailand and the Trang Archipelago in the southern Andaman Sea are good off-the-beaten-path options.
- Koh Lipe is probably the objectively most beautiful island in Thailand, though it’s become more crowded in recent years.
If you think you might find Koh Phayam overrated, don’t despair. Hire me to plan a Thailand island trip more in line with your needs an expectations.
Other FAQ About Visiting Koh Phayam
Is Koh Phayam worth it?
Koh Phayam is an island that many, many travelers love, though I am not among them. If the island ends up being your taste, then the hassle and expense of getting there might prove worth it. However, since I consider Phayam to be among Thailand’s worst islands, I don’t feel this way.
When to visit Koh Phayam?
Like most of the rest of Thailand’s islands, Koh Phayam is at its most inviting during the dry and relatively cool months between about late November and late March. However, you can also visit as early as October or at late as May, assuming you don’t mind a little rain or the threat of some.
How do I get to Koh Phayam from Chiang Mai?
Reaching Koh Phayam from Chiang Mai will require you first to fly to Bangkok’s Don Mueang Airport, then to connect to a flight to Rayong. From here, you need to ride a ferry to Koh Phayam—and then, likely, a motorbike or tuk-tuk to the other side of the island from the port.
The Bottom Line
Is Koh Phayam worth visiting? I can’t tell you, definitively speaking, that the answer to this question is yes. It is certainly not the “Maldives of Thailand,” or anything close to that. At the same time, while I don’t consider Phayam to be among Thailand’s best islands—in fact, I might even say it’s the worst—I can’t lie that it may appeal to certain types of travelers. Namely, those who value a certain vibe over the objective beauty of a given beach, or who want to be around a particular type of person. Need personalized help putting your Thailand island itinerary together? Consider hiring me to plan your trip, and let me help you find the perfect beach for you.
