Koh Samui occupies a strange place in my Thailand travel psyche. I’ll start by addressing the elephant in the room: It’s never been my favorite Thai island—and I’ve never been shy about admitting that.
Indeed, the more popular Samui has become (as I’m re-writing this guide, it’s still benefitting from the so-called “White Lotus Effect”), the more I’ve questioned precisely what about the island endears people so much. Is it the expensive flights required to reach it? The crowded and over-developed beaches? The mostly underwhelming accommodation?
At the same time, I’ve tried to make this Koh Samui itinerary less about my personal impression of the island, and more a reflection of my extensive experience traveling here. I hope it will help you on your journey, in any event!
Where to Stay in Koh Samui
As I foreshadowed in the introduction, many Koh Samui hotels leave a lot to be desired. Not all of them, mind you—if you can afford a stay at the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, for example, where White Lotus was shot, you will feel like you’re on the show. But the majority of accommodations on the island are neither as luxurious as this one, nor as ensconced from the crowds and chaos of popular Chaweng and Lamai beaches (more on those in a moment).
Barring a five-star stay, there are basically two approaches you can take. You can lean into one of the busier parts of Samui, but choose a place that offers private (and, ideally, oceanfront) villas. The Kala between Chaweng and Lamai is a good example of this. Alternatively, if you have your own transport or don’t mind hiring a driver, a more remote property like the scenic Anzhu Seamate Villa might be the best option.
What to Do in Koh Samui
Hit the beach in Chaweng and Lamai
Samui’s east coast is a mixed bag, but it’s also without a doubt home to its “best” beaches. Now, whether or not these include Chaweng and Lamai (the two most popular) ones themselves is up to your own judgment. Personally, I love Chaewng Noi Beach the best, for swimming, even if looking down on Lamai from the viewpoint near the perverse Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks (where you can get fresh coconut ice cream, or homemade local caramels) offers the best photo opportunity.
Spend a morning at the Big Buddha
Another must-visit spot on your Koh Samui itinerary? Wat Phra Yai, aka the Big Buddha, and potentially also the multi-armed Wat Plai Laem located not far from there. If you have time when you’re here, you could head over to the Bo Phut Fisherman’s Village for lunch, or to adjacent Mae Nam Beach for a swim, though these are totally optional activities if you’re busy.
Go off the beaten path out west in Nathon
Nathon on Samui’s oft-overlooked west coast is one of my favorite places on the island, whether I’m watching sunset from the Khao Naw Viewpoint, visiting one of its many coconut plantations or stopping en route at Na Muang Waterfall. Being here can be slightly stressful if you’re self-driving, on account of the traffic, but it’s a lovely place to spend the morning or afternoon—the crowds are primarily locals, rather than tourists.
Don’t neglect the underrated south coast
I’ll be honest: The southern coast wasn’t high on my list of things to do in Koh Samui. I randomly ended up here (specifically at Wat Phra Chedi Laem Sor) one afternoon on my first trip, and made a habit of driving along here on my way between the east and west coasts on subsequent visits. A favorite spot of mine that not many people know about? Thong Krut Pier, which is home both to a picturesque marina, and also lots of great, local seafood restaurants.
Take a day trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park
Strangely, although Koh Samui is adjacent to many other destinations that require at least a day or two of your time (more on those in a minute), it isn’t a great jumping-off point for day trips. The major exception to this rule is Ang Thong National Marine Park, a cluster of islands just offshore. It’s easy to take a boat trip from Mae Nam Pier to these islands, which require a full day of your time.
How Many Days Do You Need in Koh Samui?
If you discount the various complaints I’ve leveled about Koh Samui, it is a large island with a lot to do. Realistically, you would need a minimum of two days to see everything—and that’s if you have your own set of wheels, or can hire a car and drive from your hotel. If you have to depend on songthaew and Grab cars, you probably need longer, at least if you want to take a comprehensive trip.
Of course, the discussion of how many days in Koh Samui is never really only about Samui—it’s also about the nearby islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao. Even if you only spend a night or two on Samui itself, it’s likely that you will visit one or both of these other islands, meaning that you will spend 3-7 days in the Chumphon archipelago as a whole. It’s a lot bigger than it looks on the map!
Other FAQ About Visiting Koh Samui
Is Koh Samui overrated?
In my opinion, Koh Samui is overrated, and not just because of the “White Lotus Effect” (though it didn’t help). Neither the quality of the beaches here nor the chaotic ambulance justifies that high expense of visiting, which results mostly from overpriced hotels, and from the fact that one airline maintains a monopoly on flights to the island. Samui isn’t terrible; it also isn’t Thailand’s best island by a long shot.
Do I need to rent a motorbike in Koh Samui?
You do need to rent some sort of vehicle in Koh Samui, even if it’s a car, whether for self-drive or with a driver included. However, unless you are very experienced riding a motorbike, I would advise against renting one of those. Motorbike accidents are extremely common in Thailand, especially among foreigners. Literally hundreds of foreigners are seriously injured or even die on Thailand’s roads every year!
How long should I spend in Koh Samui?
If you want to see everything Samui has to offer, you need a minimum of 2-3 nights on the island. However, when including nearby islands like Koh Tao and Koh Pha Ngan in the discussion, you’re really looking at anywhere from 3-7 nights in the Chumphon archipelago, regardless of how many days Koh Samui itself ends up occupying.
The Bottom Line
I’ve spent the better part of a decade refining my Koh Samui itinerary. And so while I won’t lie about my feelings for the island—I don’t adore it—the reality is that I have done the work of getting to know the island. I might not be in a rush to get back there myself, but I can certainly advise you on how to take your trip. Assuming, of course, that you don’t immediately take a boat to Koh Tao or Koh Pha Ngan, and leave Samui in the dust. Or, that you don’t hire me to plan your trip to Thailand for you. With personalized daily recommendations for accommodations, meals and activities, plus detailed transportation advice throughout, it’s the surest way to ensure the trip you take is the one you’ve dreamed about.
