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Why I (Still) Don’t Love Koh Kood

I wanted my latest trip to Koh Kood to be the one that changed it all. It was the first I took completely for me—the first was as a guest of Thailand’s tourism board; the second was a ploy to mend a relationship—and I had high hopes.

Maybe, after years of seeing rose-colored reels of the island on social media, my experience on the ground would match the ones that dudebro influencers captured from their drones.

Unfortunately for me, it became clear almost upon arriving that this probably wouldn’t happen. That’s the bad news. The good news? Whether you’re seeking a comprehensive Koh Kood itinerary, or simply an honest opinion on whether or not you should do there, I’ll definitely provide you with the information you need.

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Where to Stay in Koh Kood

Koh Kood hotels have always rubbed me a bit the wrong way. Well, not always—when I stayed at the Cham’s House resort, on my first trip in 2015, the experience was sublime. Unfortunately, returning here post-pandemic saw a highly diminished property which, four years later, is somehow still in business. Needless to say, I’ve taken to staying in simpler properties like the Siam Beach Resort at Bang Bao Beach.

No matter where you stay on Koh Kood, you should expect what you increasingly see on most Thai islands: Outdated and simplistic accommodations and a surprisingly high price—the scenery is what you’re paying for. Unfortunately, as you’ll soon understand after reading my commentary about Koh Kood, the natural beauty of this island is contingent on a variety of factors you can’t control.

5 Things That Rub Me Wrong About Koh Kood

The beaches

 

I was pretty upbeat about Koh Kood’s beaches on my first couple of trips to the island—there just wasn’t much hype back then. On my most recent visit, however, I felt decidedly disappointed. Some of this was the unseasonably bad weather, which colored the normally clear water a dull grey. Still, the reality is that even on a perfect day, Koh Kood’s beaches simply aren’t on the level of those in Thailand’s Andaman Sea, and aren’t at all like the drone videos you see online.

The other tourists

 

Look, I don’t want to be hateful or judgmental—I’m sure many of the cookie-cutter, white, heterosexual couples riding motorbikes around Koh Kood were perfectly nice people. But they weren’t nice to me, which made the sheer number of them seem like an impenetrable social barrier that made my time on Koh Kood feel extremely lonely. I rarely had a moment of quiet in populated areas in the island; I also didn’t have a single real conversation.

The size of the island

 

Koh Kood is the second-largest island of the Koh Chang archipelago, behind Koh Chang itself. And as is the case with Koh Chang, this presents two main challenges. First, it’s a pain to get around (you either need your own vehicle, or endless patience with songthaew and motorbike taxis). And secondly, like Koh Chang, the majority of Koh Kood’s vast surface area just isn’t all that impressive.

The price of accommodation

 

Even if you don’t have a problem getting around in Koh Kood, you will probably be disappointed with your accommodation. You’ll almost always pay more for a room than it’s worth, with simple air-conditioned bungalows often retailing for over 3,000 Baht per night, and rooms in proper resorts going for twice or even three times that. The ROI simply isn’t there, especially when you consider how overrated Koh Kood’s beaches are.

The hassle of getting there

 

I’ll describe the process of how to reach the island in greater detail below, but suffice it to say: Koh Kood is pretty remote. Which would be fine if, as was the case with Koh Lipe (for example), spectacular beaches and a great environment waited everywhere you go. But Koh Kood is just not on the same level as Lipe and many of its neighbors, which for me anyway means that the process of reaching the island isn’t worth the trouble.

How to Get to (and Around) Koh Kood

As I commentated above, Koh Kood is a damn pain to reach. After flying from Bangkok to Trat one of only one 2-3 (expensive) daily flights, or taking a bus ride that can last 5-6 hours on a good day, you’ll need to get a songthaew to Laem Sok Pier, and a speedboat or high-ferry from there. This will take the better part of a day in either case, and cost you a minimum of 2,000 Baht when all is said and done.

And that’s just the journey from Bangkok to Koh Kood. The island is far too big to walk, and although most foreigners rent motorbikes, I consider doing so too risky for my taste. This leaves two main options: Renting a car (which is possible, but problematic; there are few cars and they tend not to be very good); or hiring a motorbike taxi or songthaew every time you go somewhere. Not ideal but then, neither is Koh Kood.

Other FAQ About Visiting Koh Kood

Is Koh Kood worth visiting?

Koh Kood is not a terrible island, but it is highly overrated. I’d suggest visiting if you plan to be in Trat province anywhere (namely, on a superior island like Koh Mak or Koh Wai), but I think taking a dedicated trip from Bangkok would be a mistake. Koh Kood simply doesn’t live up to the image portrayed on social media, and is far inferior to islands on the “Andaman side” of Thailand.

How long should you spend in Koh Kood?

Koh Kood is a large island, though most of its good beaches are concentrated in the island’s west and south. As a result, you can see most of what it has to offer with one full day (plus part of two others for getting on and off the island). With this being said, it might be advisable to add an extra day or two to guard against the possibility of bad weather.

Which part of Koh Kood is best?

The best beach on Koh Kood, overall, is Bang Bao Beach. Its shallow waters are clear and beautiful, there are a variety of hotels and resorts. I also like beaches along the island’s southern coast, with Ao Jark bay being a particular favorite of mine for its beauty and serenity.

The Bottom Line

Some of you will disregard the warnings in this post, and simply follow the Koh Kood itinerary I’ve hidden between the lines of it, without cynicism or apprehension. And honestly, I appreciate this—I wish I was able to see the island through fresh eyes. Instead, as is the case with neighboring Koh Chang, I see Koh Kood mostly through the lens of how reliably it has managed to live up to even modest expectations I’ve had of it, let alone the impossibly idyllic image of it some influencers (dudebros, mostly) blast out on social media. That’s the (maybe) bad news. The definitely good news? I can help you choose the right island for you when you hire me to plan your Thailand trip.

 

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