The first time I visited the Grand Palace, it felt like an ordeal. It was 2012 and, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed young traveler that I was, I found myself in Bangkok in the middle of the rainy season. The structure’s famous stupas towered into a gray sky that looked like it could explode at any minute.
“You can’t wear those,” the guard pointed at my shorts, and then over to a shop selling unsightly “elephant pants.” After I shelled out 100 baht for those, he directed me toward the line for farang, which gave me the privilege of paying 500 big ones for the privilege of entering the palace. The Thai friend who accompanied didn’t pay a single satang.
The bad news? Once inside the Bangkok Grand Palace, my experience was not really any better. The good news? I’ve softened to the place over the years, though if I’m honest, it still isn’t somewhere I love.
Are the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew the Same Place?
I thought I’d start this article by delineating the Grand Palace vs Wat Phra Kaew, because these two terms are interchangeable. And to be fair, the sites are on the same plot of land, with the former further to the south and the latter north along Sanam Luang field. The key to understanding the distinction between these sites is in their names: While the Grand Palace is the Royal Residence, Wat Phra Kaew is a temple.
And as far as what Phra Kaew means? It means “Emerald Buddha,” an image you will see if you look inside the central hall of the temple. It’s very small, however, so you do need to have a bit of an eagle eye in order to spot it. One unique thing about Wat Phra Kaew is that no monks live on site, which makes sense, given that it was a private chapel for the Thai king for generations before opening to the public alongside the Grand Palace.
5 Things I Don’t Love About the Grand Palace
The admission fee
As I referenced in the introduction to this piece, the price of admission to the Grand Palace is insane. The good news? It hasn’t gone up in the decade-plus that I’ve been visiting the Grand Palace. But the reality is that for the price of entry, you can see several other attractions in Rattanakosin—almost all of them, in fact.
The crowds
It won’t surprise you to learn this, but the Grand Palace (as Bangkok’s most popular and recognized tourist attraction) is absolutely mobbed basically every day of the year. You can minimize the impact on your trip by visiting early in the morning (it opens at 8:30 AM) but even in this case, except dozens if not hundreds of people.
The restrictiveness
Unlike some tourist sites in Thailand, everyone who enters the Grand Palace needs to cover their knees and shoulders—not just women. If you don’t have pants on, you will be required to buy a pair of unsightly linen ones at the door. Moreover, while I’ve been left alone while using one discreetly, tripods are officially prohibited within the Grand Palace.
The size
When combined with the attached Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), the Grand Palace is absolutely huge, covering the equivalent area of several city blocks. This means that when combined with the massive crowds roaming the place, it’s likely that even a “quick” visit will take the entire morning or afternoon.
The hype it fails to live up to
I don’t want to crap on the Grand Palace too much. It’s architecturally impressive, and for better or for worse is the center of Bangkok’s old city and the symbol of the city. At the same time, it simply isn’t that much more beautiful or ornate than any of the many other sacred and historical sites in Bangkok to deserve its level of hype.
Alternatives to the Grand Palace
It might not surprise you to hear this, after reading this post, but I often recommend against my private travel clients visiting the Grand Palace, and instead make different suggestions:
- Although Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) has also become much less affordable in recent years, I find that it provides a better experience overall than the Grand Palace.
- Likewise, riding a ferry over the river to Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) is also always a good idea, particularly in the early morning.
- Heading further northward, spots like Wat Saket (the Golden Mount) and Lohas Prasat temple are interesting alternatives to the Grand Palace. You can also visit Sao Ching Cha (the Giant Swing) and the Wat Benjambophit “marble” temple.
Want to dig even deeper into Bangkok’s older areas? Consider heading westward to Thonburi, the older portion of the ancient part of Bangkok.
Other FAQ About Bangkok’s Grand Palace
Is the Grand Palace worth visiting?
The Grand Palace might be worth visiting under the right circumstances. Namely, so long as you are OK with the relatively high entry fee (500 baht for foreigners) and the massive crowds that are likely to be there. I do suggest going very early in the morning (it opens at 8:30) in order to have the best possible experience.
Is the Grand Palace the same as Wat Phra Kaew?
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew are on the same plot of land, but they are different places. The Grand Palace is the royal residence, while Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) was the monarch’s private temple prior to being opened to the public.
Can you wear shorts to Bangkok’s Grand Palace?
You can wear shorts into the first entrance of the Grand Palace, but you will need to purchase long pants or a sarong in order to enter the ticketed area. If you can, I recommend simply wearing long pants to begin with, in order to save yourself hassle upon arriving.
The Bottom Line
If my you read my Bangkok Grand Palace travel guide before visiting, you should be able to save yourself some trouble. The first time I went there, I was flying blind, from the time of year it was, to my obliviousness regarding the different standard to which foreigners are held. I also wasn’t intentional about why I was there, nor was I experienced enough exploring Bangkok (and Thailand as a whole) to be able to contextualize the place properly. Need personalized help sorting out where to visit (and where not to visit) on your own trip to Thailand’s City of Angels? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary today!
