By the time I reached Ayutthaya on my recent central Thailand road trip, I was feeling slightly restless. While both Lopburi and Phetchabun had been revelatory, my stint in Sukhothai had left me much less impressed than my previous visits to the ancient caital.
On one hand, my planning counteracted the panic. Prior to arriving in Ayutthaya, I stopped at an absolutely wild temple outside of town (more on that in a minute); that evening, I wathced sunset behind the Big Buddha of Wat Muang in Ang Thong, just to Ayutthaya’s north.
On the other hand, sunrise the next morning was basically colorless, which left me less than excited for my trip to Bang Pa’in Palace. This is where the story gets interesting.
Why I Had to Come Back to Bang Pa’in
The first time I visited this Ayutthaya palace, I was in the wrong mindset, to put it mildly. On one hand, I’d long been curious about the site, originally constructed in the 17th-century, but built into what it was today by Kings Rama IV and especially Rama V, between about 1872-1889. Here was a single, visual expression of Chulalongkorn’s mission to modernize Thailand, as well as to fuse elements of Western architecture and design with the proud traditions of what was then Siam within his summer retreat.
On the other hand, I was in a new (and, at the time, turbulent) relationship, and an argument earlier in the day had put me in some kind of mood. I remember being extremely annoyed about the fact that I had to buy a pair of “elephant pants” in order to enter the palace, even though I was aware before I even go there that this would be necessary. Regrettably, I was totally ungrateful for the fact that my now-husband had gone to the effort of taking me there, though that’s a topic for another post.
What to Know About Visiting Bang Pa’in
It isn’t in central Ayutthaya
Whether via rental car, Grab car, transfer from your hotel or even catching a train from Ayutthaya Station to Bang Pa’in Station (and some kind of taxi from there), the palace is a trek from central Ayutthaya. In the most optimistic scenario, you can expect the journey to take around 30 minutes one-way.
(It also isn’t as crowded)
This particular Thailand summer palace is relatively uncrowded, which is to say compared to Bangkok’s Grand Palace, let alone the temples of Ayutthaya. With this being said, it isn’t deserted or off-the-beaten-path. Still, you’ll see dozens of fellow tourists rather than hundreds of thousands; it isn’t overwhelming.
There’s a strict dress code
Wearing shorts and a tank top? Well, unless you are already on your way to the palace, I suggest you change. Travelers of both genders will need to cover shoulders and knees. If you forget to dress appropriately, you can buy shawls and “elephant pants” at the palace gift shop, though in my opinion these are less than attractive.
(But a lot to see)
Effectively a Thailand European palace, Bang Pa’in is absolutely massive. In addition to the Thai-style Aisawan Thiphya-Asana pavilion, you can visit the flamboyant Ho Withun Thasana lookout tower and Phra Thinang Wehart Chamrun, a two-level Chinese throne hall.
Don’t forget to cross the river by cable car
Likewise, don’t forget to cross the Chao Phraya River via cable car, which will take you to Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, a temple built in the style of a church. Finally, if you’re hungry, make sure to eat at the food court in the parking lot. It doesn’t look like much, but the duck noodles in particular are to die for.
BONUS: Another “Hidden” Ayutthaya Attraction
Have more than an afternoon in Ayutthaya and your own set of wheels, or the wherewithal to hire a car and driver? Make sure to add Wat Klang Khlong Watthana Ram, also known as the “Purple Temple,” to your Ayutthaya itinerary. The interior of this temple is utterly surreal (and not just because of its purple color), though it simultaneously manages to be faithful to traditional Buddhist architectural conventions.
At the same time, its location pretty far outside the city (and notably, not on the way to any other spots that are popular as day trips from Ayutthaya) means that you are unlikely to see any other foreign tourists; you might not see many locals either. It’s for these reasons that I think a trip here is worthwhile, even if you end up needing to spend a lot of time or money to make it happen.
Other FAQ About Visiting Bang Pa’in
What to do in Bang Pa’in?
While at Bang Pa’in, explore the interior and exterior of this 17th-century summer palace, which was re-built in the late 19th century by beloved Thai King Rama V (aka Chulalongkorn) as an homage to his favorite royal residences in Europe. Do also make sure to use the cable car to cross the river, where other worthwhile attractions await.
Is Bang Pa’in Palace worth visiting?
Bang Pa’in Palace is definitely worth visiting, though you need to be in a proper mindset. This place is surprisingly crowded, considering that it isn’t in central Ayutthaya, and the requirement to wear pants (while not entirely surprising) is still slightly annoying, considering how hot it usually is in this part of Thailand.
What is the dress code for Bang Pa’in palace?
In so many words, the dress code for Bang Pa’in Palace matches that for the strictest of Thai temples, and for the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Everyone needs to cover their knees and shoulders, even men. If you don’t have an appropriate outfit in your luggage, you can purchase shawls and “elephant pants” at the palace entrance.
The Bottom Line
Although my first visit to Bang Pa’in Palace left me cold, seeing it with new eyes made me appreciate it more. My reasons for feeling this way are manifold, from being in a better mood, to coming when the weather was cool and present, to having a game plan when I arrived. I even think my decision to eat at the parking lot’s food court colored my impression this time, the fact that my experience in Ayutthaya-proper on this occasion was mixed, to say the least. Certainly, Bang Pa’in is a unique destination that’s worth a visit, whether or not you end up loving it. Take your next Thailand trip to the next level when you hire me to plan it.
