When it comes to northern Thailand, there are degrees of obscurity. Obviously, both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are pretty mainstream—this is not a bad thing, necessarily.
There, there is the middle ground. I would include Mae Hong Son in this category, if only because of the fact the hippies have been coming for literal decades at this point. Lampang, too; it’s become much more popular in recent years, in no small part because of my own reporting.
When it comes to Nan vs Phayao? Well, these are definitely the most “alternative” provinces in northern Thailand, as well as two of my favorites. If you’re torn between them, I’ll do my best over the next few paragraphs to help you decide.
Phayao Grabbed My Attention First
Now, I don’t want to spoil anything regarding my choice between Nan or Phayao. With this being said, my final conclusion doesn’t necessarily match my initial impressions or assumptions—before I touched down in each of these provinces, I found myself much more drawn to Phayao. Ironically, this was in large part due to the prospect of the Phu Langka viewpoint, a place I didn’t end up going.
Upon speaking with a few Thai friends after setting my plans in place, I also felt intrigued by Phayao’s lake; lakes are not especially common in this part of Thailand. Nan, for its part, was long on my Thailand radar (I first heard it mentioned as a “trending” destination, at least among Thai travelers, way back in 2014), but I didn’t have as many tangible reasons for wanting to spend time there.
Ways to Compare Nan with Phayao
Getting there
Both Nan and Phayao are pretty remote, requiring several hours on the road even from Chiang Mai—even from Lampang, if you’re already off the beaten path. Nan, however, is slightly easier to reach overall because it has an airport (Nan Airport, code NNT), which receives several nonstop flights per day from Bangkok (DMK). The closest airport to Phayao, meanwhile, is Chiang Rai (CEI), which is nearly two hours away by car.
Getting around
In Nan and Phayao alike, having your own set of wheels will make your life a lot easier. The best way to do this, in my opinion is to rent a car. I highly advise against renting a motorbike, unless you are a very experienced motorcyclist, including with plenty of experience in Southeast Asia. While you can explore both city’s centers easily enough on foot, a vehicle (whether you rent one, or hire a car and driver) is essential for day trips and excursions.
Things to do
Phayao’s central attraction is Phayao Lake, and many of its secondary places to visit are on or near the lake, such as Wat Tilok Aram, an “island temple.” In Nan, meanwhile, you will find some attractions in town, namely Wat Phumin temple and the Nan National Museum. However, my favorite place in Nan-proper is Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a “standing” Buddha that’s about 15 minutes away by car.
Hotels
Obviously, I have a slight bias when comparing Phayao vs Nan in this way. Although Phayao’s Baan Ma Grood guest house is nothing to write home about in terms of its facilities (the service was excellent, however), it was at least clean. By contrast, my experience in Nan’s nicest hotel (which I won’t name here out of respect) was terrifying: Maggots literally rained down on me.
Natural landscapes
Obviously, the aforementioned Phayao Lake defines the natural environment of Phayao at least as much as the fertile rice fields and lush mountains around it—even more, I assume, than the Phu Langkha “Magic Mountain,” which I sadly have yet to visit. In Nan, meanwhile, this surrounding countryside is both more central to the nature but also less distinctive, with the only absolute standout being the aptly-named Number 3 Road.
Why You Should Visit Both of These Provinces
When I left Nan behind after several days split between there and Phayao (and Lampang, if we are being comprehensive), I meditated not on which of these places was “better,” but on the gratitude I felt for having finally explored both of them. It’s a privilege, frankly, to be able to experience such novelty and authenticity in Thailand almost two decades after having come here for the first time, never mind how much of the country is now considered to be on the tourist trail.
Now, I get that you might have a finite amount of time in Thailand—you may have to choose Phayao or Nan (or neither) now, and wait until later to be able to visit the other. But I implore you: If you plan to enter into a long-term travel relationship with Thailand, you really should do your best to set foot in both of these underrated provinces at some point, ideally sooner rather than later. They’re each so, so worth.
Other FAQ About Phayao and Nan
Is Nan or Phayao better?
Both Nan and Phayao are the picture of “off the beaten path” Thailand destinations, and are worth visiting for their own reasons. Nan is probably “better” if you do better with a longer and more structured list of attractions, while Phayao is better suited for travelers who prioritize authenticity and obscurity.
How do I get from Nan to Phayao?
If you have your own car or can hire a driver, you can travel between Nan and Phayao in less than three hours one-way. Going by bus? Unfortunately, because this requires a transfer, you’re looking at up to 10 hours of travel time. The conclusion? Splurge on some kind of private vehicle, unless time is simply not a factor for you.
How many days do I need in Nan and Phayao?
Presuming you will have your own transport to get between the two provinces, I recommend a minimum of 3-5 days split between Nan and Phayao. If you’ll need to ride the bus from Nan to Phayao (and/or vice-versa) and will take a piecemeal approach to transportation within the two, then you’ll probably need closer to a week to explore them fully.
The Bottom Line
The Nan vs Phayao debate isn’t necessarily clean-cut. There’s no “loser”—both of these obscure corners of northern Thailand often almost countless rewards for travelers adventurous enough to venture here, be that the way that Phayao feels rural even in its town center, or how unjaded locals in Nan are, in spite of the fact that their city will eventually become a big deal for foreign tourists. Ultimately, you’ll need to visit both of these places to decide for yourself. Don’t have the time or inclination to do that right now? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary, and let me use my expertise and experience to chart a personalized course through the Kingdom for you.
