Maybe it’s the sound I remember most: The thud that suggested an anvil or an elephant in the way it broke through the night. Or perhaps the sensation of crawling, even though the culprits had no limbs; their motion could better be described as a scurry or a scoot.
Regardless, as much as I love Nan, the first and last thing it will always make me thinks of is maggots—yes, you read that right. In spite of having stayed in the city’s nicest hotel, I spent my entire night there sleepless; dozens of maggots fell from the ceiling as I laid (and, later, sat upright) there, waiting for light to come over the horizon like vampire prey.
Thankfully, you almost certainly won’t have to contend with this slow-motion nightmare on your own trip to the city. Which is merciful: Had it not been for my doomed overnight stay, I’d have already started singing the praises of things to do in Nan.
Why It Took Me So Long to Visit Nan
Nan first made its way onto my Thailand bucket list (albeit a very diffuse version of it) over a decade ago, when a Thai friend of mine told me that urban Thais were discovering it. The problem? My searches for an English-language Nan travel guide got me nowhere, and I began to realize that traveling there would occupy more bandwidth than I had at the time. So I tabled the possibility to visiting Nan indefinitely.
Indeed, I didn’t even make it to Nan between 2017-2019, when I lived in Bangkok and when doing so would theoretically be easier. It took me literally exploring the entire rest of northern Thailand for me to open up to the possibility once again, by which point resources in my native language were thankfully much more helpful than I’d been way back when. Nan, for its part, was more than worth the wait.
What to Do in Nan
Spend a while in Nan’s charming center
Central Nan is an absolute delight to explore, even if its most famous attraction (Wat Phumin) is slightly ordinary as Thai temples go—I prefer the “golden” temple of Wat Sri Phan Don down the street. Of course, more than any attraction, what I love about central Nan is how straightforward it is, whether I’m sipping locally-grown coffee sold from a simple cart or browsing a shop filled with authentic local costumes.
(And don’t skip Nan National Museum)
The next essential element of your Nan itinerary? The Nan National Museum, which wins on two major factors. First, the museum building itself is absolutely gorgeous, having been built around the turn of last century, originally as a royal residence. Beyond these, the exhibits themselves are fascinating, drawing attention to local textile and pottery traditions (among other foci). Another great place for Nan history? Nan Noble House, a prime example of local teak architecture.
Visit Wat Phra That Khao Noi at least once
If there’s one image that drew me to Nan, it’s the standing golden Buddha at Wat Phra That Khao Noi, not to mention the panorama of Nan city you can enjoy from the top. This is a bit outside of town—if you don’t have your own vehicle, you’ll need to mindfully arrange a ride to get here. With this being said, I do recommend going more than once if you can—once during the daytime, and another time at sunrise or sunset.
Gorge yourself on Northern cuisine
Another of my things to do in Nan, not surprisingly, is to eat. The good news is that you can enjoy all your favorite northern (and even some Isaan) specialties, from khao soi curry noodle soup, to sai krok sausages, to nam prik ong curry dip. Eating beyond this will depend upon how adventurous you are: For me, simply trying all the varieties of locally-grown oranges was enough. However, if you don’t mind blood in your soup, nam ngiao could be more appealing to you than it was to me.
Explore the countryside north of town
I’ll be honest: I didn’t come to Nan in the proper season to experience the lushness of the rural areas just north of the city. With this being said, I still enjoyed driving up Loy Fa Road, aka the Number 3 Curve Road, which really does look like the number three. Or future trips, I hope to explore more, and to go the “back way” to Phayao province so that I can watch the sunset from Phu Langkha.
Should You Stay Overnight in Nan?
Initially, I planned to visit Nan on a day trip from Lampang, as crazy as that sounds. It was feasible, of course, since I had a rental car. But it would’ve precluded me watching sunset and staying to see the city light up. (On the other hand, it also would’ve spared me the literal nightmare of having dozens of maggot rain down on me as I tried to sleep. So perhaps it wasn’t entirely wrongheaded?)
Needless to say, when choosing Nan hotels, you should opt against PX122 Dbest Hotel—this is the “maggot hotel.” Instead, choose a more time-tested, reliable property, such as Nan Rim Nam Resort along the riverfront, or Baan Mai Muang Nan closer to the town center. Wherever you stay, however, inspect the room for uninvited visitors before you unpack your bags. I wish I could go back in time and do that!
Other FAQ About Visiting Nan
Is Nan worth visiting?
Nan is absolutely worth visiting! From “attractions” like Wat Phumin and the Wat Phra That Khao Noi “standing” Buddha, to the generally relaxed and authentic vibe of the town, it’s full of everything travelers love about northern Thailand, and virtually nothing they dislike about it.
How do I get from Bangkok to Nan?
The easiest and quickest way to get from Bangkok to Nan is to hop one of several nonstop flights per day from Don Mueang Airport (DMK) to Nan Airport (NNT). Absent this, you can take a bus or minibus from Mo Chit Bus Terminal, though you should be advised that this will take between 9-12 hours, and may be an overnight service.
How do I get from Chiang Mai to Nan?
The good news? Direct buses travel somewhat regularly between Chiang Mai and Nan. The bad news? The journey time is at least six hours. I personally recommend making intermediate stops, namely in Lampang. If you don’t, however, then planning on staying in Nan for at least a night or two to make the trip worthwhile.
The Bottom Line
Of all the amazing things to do in Nan, I hope dodging falling maggots won’t end up being on your list. In many ways, Nan is the ultimate northern Thai destination: It has the cultural gravitas of Chiang Mai; it’s uncrowded like Lampang; and it is beautiful in an unspoiled way like Phayao. The only problem, alas—and, I hope, only in my case—was the unwelcome visitors in my hotel room. Need personalized help planning your Thailand adventure, no matter how far off Thailand’s beaten path it ends up taking you, assuming you even venture astray? Commission a custom Thailand itinerary, and let me sweat the details for you.
